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Xu hướng Streetwear đã bùng nổ tại Trung Quốc trong những năm gần đây, với chi tiêu của người tiêu dùng tăng gần 4 lần. Cùng với mạng xã hội, sức ảnh hưởng của các ngôi sao nhạc rap và hip-hop nổi tiếng ở châu Á đã tạo nên cú hit cho thời trang Streetwear. Các quy tắc thời trang ít đi các quy chuẩn về giới tính hơn. Ngoài ra sự kết hợp các yếu tố Trung Quốc cổ đại và đương đại dần dẫn đạo xu hướng và thu hút sự chú ý của đông đảo các bạn trẻ.

Lâu nay, thời trang phương Tây chiếm phần lớn thị phần tại thị trường Trung Quốc. Ít ai ngờ rằng, chỉ vài năm gần đây thôi, niềm yêu thích của giới trẻ đã chuyển hướng một cách mạnh mẽ. Trong đó các thương hiệu thời trang đường phố và thị trường ngách đang ngày càng thu hút nhiều người hâm mộ.

Nhờ vào sự hợp tác của các thương hiệu xa xỉ đáng chú ý và sự thành công rực rỡ của các chương trình truyền hình thực tế, các thương hiệu thời trang Streetwear dần tấn công vào các đô thị và MXH Weibo. Nhờ ảnh hưởng của KOL – những người dám diện trang phục thoải mái từ các thương hiệu ít được biết đến trong cuộc sống hàng ngày của họ, người trẻ Trung Quốc đã bắt đầu hình thành một thói quen mới, phong cách mới. Trung Quốc đang trở thành niềm ghen tị của ngày càng nhiều thương hiệu phương Tây, gây ấn tượng bởi các số liệu thống kê trong ngành thời trang, đặc biệt là thị trường quần áo thể thao trị giá 33 tỷ USD. Nhận thức được sức mạnh của nền thời trang trong nước, Trung Quốc hiện đang khuyến khích tiêu dùng nội địa đồng thời dồn sức chinh phục thế giới bằng các Local Brand như Li-ning hay Anta.

Xu hướng Streetwear đang là trung tâm của sự chú ý

Shangguan Zhe, người sáng lập nhãn hiệu Local Brands nổi tiếng Sankuanz, là một đại diện tiêu biểu cho việc thúc đẩy phong trào này trở nên mạnh mẽ ở Trung Quốc ngày nay. “Zhe trở nên hấp dẫn nhờ việc kết hợp giữa xu hướng mới và “một nền văn hóa Trung Quốc đầy bản sắc”, Radii, một tạp chí Trung Quốc do cựu Phó Chủ tịch Brian Wong của Alibaba thành lập, viết.

Một khách hàng của Lane Crawford, Jillian Xin, nhận thấy “Thời trang dạo phố ở Trung Quốc trước đây chủ yếu giới hạn trong quần áo thể thao, nhưng tôi nghĩ rằng gần đây đã có nhiều thử nghiệm hơn và xóa nhòa ranh giới, kết hợp cao và thấp, cũ và mới, nam và nữ”

Một trang thương mại điện tử lớn của Trung Quốc, Taobao, nhận thấy rằng trong khi khách hàng nam đang ngày càng hướng tới các mặt hàng phù hợp với giới tính thì các khách hàng nữ thường bị thu hút bởi những mẫu thời trang nam tính, hoặc unisex

Theo công ty tư vấn Strategy & PwC của Hypebeast và PwC trong Báo cáo tác động đến thời trang Streetwear năm 2019, những người được hỏi ở châu Á cho biết họ đã chi tiêu cho thời trang streetwear mỗi tháng nhiều hơn gấp 5 lần so với trước đây. Ngoài ra, các Brands không phải của Trung Quốc cũng đang gặt hái được nhiều lợi ích từ phong trào thời trang streetwear của đất nước này.

Đối với Tmall, nền tảng thương mại điện tử B2C lớn nhất Trung Quốc, tăng trưởng thời trang dạo phố cao hơn 60% so với mức tăng trưởng trung bình của các danh mục quần áo khác. Báo cáo của công ty này cũng cho thấy rằng giày thể thao và áo hoodie là những món đồ thời trang dạo phố được săn lùng nhiều nhất.

Theo Báo cáo tác động thời trang Streetwear năm 2019, những người được hỏi đã thú nhận rằng nguồn cảm hứng lớn nhất của họ đến từ mạng xã hội và chính từ đường phố . Các chương trình tìm kiếm tài năng trên truyền hình đã gây bão ở Trung Quốc, xóa nhòa ranh giới văn hóa giữa hip-hop và thời trang.

Youku, một dịch vụ lưu trữ video ở Trung Quốc, đã phát sóng mùa thứ ba của 1 chương trình sống còn được giới phê bình đánh giá rất cao “Street Dance of China”. Chương trình này thu hút những người thuộc thế hệ millennials và Gen Z-ers ở Trung Quốc, đặc biệt là nhờ sự kết hợp giữa rap và thời trang dạo phố. Mùa gần đây nhất, được phát sóng trực tiếp vào mùa Thu năm nay, có sự góp mặt của nhiều người nổi tiếng, từ rapper Jackson Wang đến Wang Yibo.

Sự phát triển của xu hướng Streetwear ở Trung Quốc một phần khác là nhờ tầm ảnh hưởng lớn của nhạc pop Hàn Quốc (K-pop). Được chuyển thể từ một chương trình tương tự của Hàn Quốc, “Show Me The Money” là một trong những chương trình tìm kiếm tài năng về rap được giới trẻ yêu thích. Thông qua các lựa chọn trang phục của các thí sinh, chương trình cũng làm bật các Brands Streetwear như Virgil Abloh’s Off-white, Stüssy, Supreme,…

Streetwear Brands: Sức ảnh hưởng của KOLs là không thể phủ nhận

Giống như nhiều nước khác, mạng xã hội là vua ở Trung Quốc và người Trung Quốc rất mê người nổi tiếng, ngưỡng mộ các ngôi sao Trung Quốc cũng như Hàn Quốc và Mỹ. Công ty tư vấn AT Kearney nhận thấy rằng mức độ tiếp nhận các đề xuất của những người nổi tiếng (78%) và KOL (63%) ở Trung Quốc xếp hạng cao hơn bất kỳ quốc gia nào khác được khảo sát.

Theo một nghiên cứu gần đây của Goldman Sachs, Gen Z-es – gần 415 triệu người, đã quen với việc đi du lịch nước ngoài và mặc đồ hiệu phương Tây, họ cũng có xu hướng quan tâm rất nhiều đến ngoại hình. Tài khoản chính thức Weibo và Wechat, và ngày càng có nhiều TikTok, là những kênh phổ biến nhất để nhận các xu hướng thời trang

Niềm tự hào thời trang “made in China”

Ngày nay, dân số Trung Quốc, cùng với nền kinh tế Trung Quốc đang phát triển mạnh mẽ. Do đó, doanh số bán thời trang dạo phố cây nhà lá vườn một lần nữa nở rộ. Các thương hiệu thời trang dạo phố của Trung Quốc như Li-ning rất tài năng trong việc tạo ra một bản sắc đích thực. Nó đã thành công trong việc trở thành một Brands kết hợp giữa văn hóa đường phố đương đại và các yếu tố cổ xưa của Trung Quốc. Các nhà thiết kế địa phương cũng thường xuyên lấy cảm hứng từ thời Trung Hoa cổ xư hoặc Đạo giáo cho các bộ sưu tập của mình.

Li-Ning tiếp tục chứng tỏ sức mạnh thời trang dạo phố của mình tại Tuần lễ thời trang Thượng Hải với bộ sưu tập SS21 với những đôi giày thể thao chunky đầy màu sắc, bắt kịp xu hướng mới với làn sóng streetwear toàn cầu. Bộ sưu tập này là một minh chứng thực sự cho hành trình chứng minh: thương hiệu của họ là biểu tượng của niềm tự hào dân tộc. Một thương hiệu đồ thể thao khác của Trung Quốc, Mukzin, cũng gây chú ý không kém tại Tuần lễ thời trang Thượng Hải SS21 với bộ sưu tập mới mang tên Jia Long, có nghĩa là “phụ kiện tóc của phụ nữ” trong văn hóa Tây Tạng. Nhà tạo mẫu và blogger Weibo nổi tiếng Zac Zhao đã viết, “[Bộ sưu tập] đã làm cho văn hóa dân tộc trở nên mới mẻ dưới lăng kính của thời trang,” ám chỉ đến phong trào truyền tải thời trang dạo phố hiện đại với các yếu tố truyền thống của Trung Quốc.

Nhờ các tuần lễ thời trang mà gần đây, hàng hóa “Made in China” đang nhận được sự thay đổi nhận thức ở cả trong và ngoài nước. Chẳng hạn, Tuần lễ thời trang New York đã trở thành bệ phóng đặc biệt cho các thương hiệu Trung Quốc thể hiện văn hóa đường phố của họ. Sự kiện này đã giúp các thương hiệu Trung Quốc trở nên nổi tiếng trên toàn thế giới.

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